Wandering ...

My little sister, Sandra, packed us into her car and took us wandering today ... out along the Otago Peninsula here in Dunedin.

It's a favourite old haunt of mine.  I lived in 4 houses out there between Broad Bay and Portobello.  We drove by some of them. Loved it all over again.

We came back over the high road and she stopped so I could attempt to capture this place again.

Dinner tonight, up at Fiona and Barry's place but that's a other whole long blog.  I'll write it tomorrow because tonight I'm full of good food and exhausted from laughing often with old friends I adore.

My Beach in New Zealand

The photograph below doesn't really capture why I might feel passionate about this particular beach here in New Zealand and it's frustrating because Long beach is so definitely my beach.

My 17-year-old niece, the lovely Georgia, drove us out there yesterday and finally, it felt like I had returned ... completely returned.

Long Beach is located over the back of Dunedin city - turn left just before Port Chalmers, climb up into the hills and drive towards the east coast a while.

The sun was out, as was the tide, and the beach was like all of my favourite beaches here ... almost empty.

Cooper, the happy hound, fulfilled his role and chased the tennis ball endlessly.  And that was me, looking  like the happiest little kid ... just quietly wandering along the waters edge. 

The yellow lupins were in full-bloom and, honestly, they would have to be my favourite flower.  They have this delicate scent that, when mixed with the smell of the sea, is as close to heaven as I can get.

We sat in the sun out there on the beach, simply breathing in the best of New Zealand's air - 2 lovely nieces, my sister and brother-in-law, and the Belgian bloke too - just enjoying being there, back on that beach I love so well.

Mount Tongariro, that erupting volcano

It hasn't been dull ... not at all, since we arrived in New Zealand just 5 days ago.

Christine and Peter Kirker made sure we had the most delicious taste of Auckland before we headed off on that roadtrip, bound for their city, the capital called Wellington.

Sights seen and foods tasted along the way upheld the standard of extraordinary roadtrip.

And so it was, on that fabulous journey, I was able to photograph my first volcanic eruption. Safely roadside but spectacular nontheless ... Mount Tongariro.

Taniwha ...

Taniwha are supernatural creatures whose forms and characteristics vary according to different tribal traditions. Though supernatural, in the Māori world view they were seen as part of the natural environment. Taniwha have been described as fabulous monsters that live in deep water.

I saw this while wandering in Rotorua's geo-thermal park the other day and wondered about the Maori legends and the Taniwha ...


Steven Clothier's Corrugated Creations

The small New Zealand town of Tirau offered up something quite different to anything I've seen before, in terms of advertising signs.  And I loved it.

I went searching for the story and found the website - Corrugated Creations.

The photograph below is of the huge corrugated iron sign that advertised the garage we pulled into after hearing the most terrible grinding sound coming from under the bonnet.  We were lucky ... a stone had bounced up into the brakes but the mechanic there ... what a sweetie.

 

Christine and Peter ...

Way back when ... when my first husband joined the New Zealand airforce, he was recruited by Peter Kirker.  And Peter, being the kind-hearted soul that he is, told his wife that this new recruit had a wife and she might need some support as her 30 year old husband disappeared into 6 months of basic and officer training.

And that was where our friendship began ... so many years ago, it played out on Base Woodbourne in Marlborough and we've stayed in touch over the years.

So when they heard we were coming home, they suggested we arrive in Auckland so that they could introduce Gert to the North Island of New Zealand ... a territory that has remained relatively unknown to me.  I'm a South Island girl and was always so completely in love with the other island that I never did get round to the roadtrip 'up north' before leaving home.

Since arriving on Monday, we have been introduced to Auckland, wandered in Rotoroa, slept at Taupo, eaten enough exquisite food to make me wonder why it was that I left and, last night,  we have arrived in Wellington.  

We have laughed often as we've wandered with this lovely couple, talked endlessly, been taken care of like we were special and we have had a most marvellous time.

Returning has felt something like someone opening up their red wine cellar up to us, and bringing out all their treasures, inviting us to taste each one and, rather than getting drunk, we find ourselves filled up with the goodness that is a return to New Zealand. 

I'm really struggling to focus down in on each individual story ... the people, the places, the sights seen.  The stories, the 'incidents' (mmmmm, there may have been some incidents),  and the details of this return home after 8 years away.

Last night I was talking to my dad and my sister, anticipating arriving in their world at the weekend.  And exchanging mails with Giovanni and Inge, lovely friends made via the internet ... people I'll be seeing while here in Wellington.  There are people to visit with all over this country of mine and I love that.

This morning, 5am (the new normal), and the dawn chorus exploded into the room.  I love it.  I have missed so much about 'home', deep inside of myself, in that place where these kinds of memories hide themselves. 

Anyway, enough of the deluge of words ... I photographed our lovely friends while they were showing Gert a Fantail on one of the pathways in Rotorua.  Meet Christine and Peter Kirker, people I am so honoured to have as friends.

 

 

 

 

Auckland to Wellington ... now to blog

We just completed our trip down the North Island. Today found us photographing New Zealand's erupting volcano, Mount Tongariro.  This, after a delightrful hour or more spent at L’Art'e Cafe, enjoying stunning food, exquisite art, AND, the best coffee I've tasted outside of Italy.

It's been magic ... a truly magic couple of days.  And there's the fact that early summer in New Zealand is not to be sneezed at. I hope my body clock has made the switch though ... otherwise I'm drinking red wine at 6.49am Belgian time. (NZ is 12 hours ahead).

Yesterday we were wandering the paths of Wai-O-Tapu, one of Rotorua's thermal parks, as per the photograph that follows.

Tomorrow ...

Tomorrow I will begin writing up some of the things seen ... sharing photographs taken of that erupting volcano.

Sleep ... must sleep now.

New Zealand ... and a dawn chorus

Last night, after an lovely afternoon and evening spent in the company of old friends, Gert and I fell down the rabbit hole into sleep.  It was 8pm, and it is probably more accurate to write, we plunged into sleep.

It's 4.30am as I begin this, here in New Zealand, sitting up in bed, laptop on my legs, typing as the Bellbirds begin the morning chorus ... I'm so glad to be home.  

Actually, if you select Dawn Chorus, on this page, you'll get a sense of what I am currently listening to, here in this city of just over 1 million people. It's a city like no other I've known.  There is always the sea and so much nature, in the most beautiful way. 

But I would say that, wouldn't I ... perhaps 'the most beautiful way' is going to be code for all that is familiar.

Yesterday, after our second long flight to the bottom of the world, Peter and Christine met us at the airport (with some mad Hobbit character, who I feared was an old friend in disguise - an exuberant character who would surely mortify me. He wasn't and didn't.) After the hugs and the tears (Christine and I) they introduced us to 'their' Auckland city on the drive home to Christine's parents.

Then came lunch on the balcony and it was no ordinary lunch ... it was a kiwi 'almost summertime' lunch, just like Nana and Mum used to make.

I, who rarely drinks tea now, had a big cup of tea in honour of those women I've lost.  There were the sandwiches filled up with fresh lettuce, hardboiled egg, tomato, and cold roast chicken, with options of cheese and of ham too.  And that big bowl of fruit and the sweet juicy delight of a fresh New Zealand orange.

It was bliss because it was familiar ... bliss because I was sitting there with old friends on the inside a New Zealand family again, bliss because the neighbours called in just as they always had back in my childhood home.

Late afternoon found me barefoot and in the sea, as captured by Gert back at the top of this post.  A mild sea, pale-turquoise and so inviting, writes this woman who forgot her swimsuit ... or togs, as we call them here in the land downunder.

Dinner was Snapper, fresh from yesterday's ocean, and exquisite, of course.  Followed by a huge bowl of  strawberries and ice cream.

And we were finished.  I was suddenly at a point of exhaustion where I completely undone.  Some deep  breathing got me to sleep, calming my senses and bringing me back from that place of complete overwhelm.

Our first day in New Zealand ... old friends who welcomed us in that kiwi way that is so familiar ... a mix of humour and tears, and so much kindness too.

Today we begin our roadtrip south with them.  Christine and Peter had long-ago suggested we fly in to Auckland and that they would drive us home to their place in Wellington, pointing out it would be a great way for Gert to get a taste of the North Island but erhemm, South Island girl that I am, I haven't done this drive either. 

We will be wandering off to Rotorua and Taupo today.  There may be one or two photographs taken along the way, much laughter, good food and some hours spent with some of the kindest kiwis I know.

Thank you to Christine and Peter Kirker, for that friendship you offered when I was a newby airforce officer's wife, for all those cups of tea and homemade baking in that sun-filled kitchen of yours on Base Woodbourne, and for keeping this friendship warm all of these years I've been gone.  It is so good to be back in your lives again.

Meanwhile the NZ seagull who shared his waters-edge with me yesterday.

 

Jetlag ...

Now I remember jetlag, and I'm placing it firmly in that category with childbirth ... one of those experiences you tend to/try to forget and only really recall when you're back in the midst of it all again.

We woke at 6am in Amsterdam, took off around 10am, and arrived in Singapore at midnight Belgian time. 

Now here we are, barely conscious, waiting in the transit hotel lounge trying to forget that it's 2am back in Belgium while here in Singapore it's 8am ... and everyone is so bouncy, helpful and sweet.

We are living in the white noise ...

Important information, if you intend booking a room in this little airport transit hotel here in Singapore, pre-book a room 3-4 weeks in advance.  We've been fortunate and if we can just stay awake and hour or so longer, there's been a cancellation that we're allowed.  The carpet looks fairly inviting currently.

But  do I love  flying Singapore Airlines, it's only that I had forgotten how a 12 hour flight feels.  We truly hope to sleep before boarding a big jet and flying the rest of the way to New Zealand.

I'm really only writing this to stay awake.  Do forgive me if it makes no sense ...

Day One ... the long trek back to New Zealand

We caught an airport to airport van this morning ... from Antwerp through to Schipol Airport in Amsterdam.  For 29euro each, we were lucky enough to have this van completely to ourselves.  It was lovely.  I clicked into my seatbelt and slept.

I woke, for  a few minutes, then slept again.  And again, and again.

The two hour trip passed quickly, or so it seemed, and we arrived at the hotel, found our room here in the vast complex, turned on tv and ... I slept again.

Could be I was terribly tired.  I have been running on empty for weeks and today it seems that I simply arrived at a point where I could just sit back and relax.

Tonight in Amsterdam, here I am, loving the fact that we have BBC 2 in the hotel room.  We've watched 'Escape to the Country', 'Put Your Money Where Your Mouth Is' and now ... 'Celebrity Antiques Road Trip'.  My little cup runneth over.

A New Post on the Antwerp page

There has been a real sense of storing impressions ... of really looking, as I walk city streets in these days before flying back home to New Zealand ...

This is the opening to a new blog post I wrote for Fans of Flanders, and posted on my Antwerp page but even as I write this here, I'm thinking maybe I need to create a New Zealand page.

I'll leave you with another image from New Zealand photographer, and good friend, David Wall.

Must finish packing ... tot later.

 

How do I write of these days ... ?

It's been like that ... and with New Zealand looming up in front of me, I'm kind of lost in these days.

There are things I want to do to wrap up the time spent with 4 incredible women on the photography workshop in Genova, Italy. 

And there are things I must do before arriving in New Zealand next week.

And then there are the things to do Now ... between returning from Italy and leaving for the 'uttermost ends of the earth'. (An inscription I remember reading on a world war one memorial to New Zealand soldiers who died in Turkey ... they came from the uttermost ends of the earth.) 

New Zealand is 12 hours ahead of Belgium and it's summer there ... meanwhile Antwerp is disappearing into the fog and freezing of November.

I am digging out summer clothes even as I have winter clothes repaired and readied for my return in  January.

I am so deeply deeply saddened by the deaths of so many Palestinians but that is my facebook self and not for here, in this politically-free zone.

We have someone to take care of our house.  And all is organised in terms of travel bookings.

I have some of the best people I've ever known waiting for us to arrive in New Zealand.  I'll see my sister for the first time in 8 years.  My dad too.  One of my brothers, and my beloved Auntie Coral.  I will take that Belgian bloke on a road trip round the South Island so that he knows me in the context of the place I was born ... so different to where I am now.  I love that 2000km drive, past so many different beaches, stopping to visit with Hunter and Clare in Fiordland, with Rozanna and David in Marlborough, catching up with Dave and Jude, Corryl, with Abe, with my nieces who are 8 years older.  With my ex-mother-in-law, the one that I kept and who stayed with us a summer or two ago.  With my sister-in-law, Sue, whom I adore.  I will see nieces, old friends, and people I have loved since forever.

Fiona ... she is the friend of myth and legend.   Surely the best kind of friend you could dream of finding in a lifetime, friends since we were 13 ... she and her kiwi  bloke have found us a car. 

I can't wait to see all that has changed and revisit those things that have remained the same ... but I will, as there's 23 hours in the air before I get to see them all.

Peter and Christine ... how do I write of what good people they are ... they're waiting to meet us in Auckland and wanted to drive us through the North Island to their home in Wellington.

My cup overflows.

Can you tell?

These days are extreme.  Just a few more then I fly to the country pictured below.  David Wall took this photograph.  I love his work, so much and this ... it's New Zealand.  I'm looking forward to going home.  It's been far too long.

 

news ...

I'm in Genova soon, then off to New Zealand.  It's all starting to feel real. 

It's a long weekend here in Belgium.  It's All Saints Day today(an official public holiday), then tomorrow is All Souls Day (an unofficial holiday but some people, like Gert, have a bridging day)

The bridging day phenomena is explained most precisely on wiki: 'when a lone holiday occurs on a Tuesday or a Thursday, the gap between that day and the weekend may also be designated as a holiday, or set to be a movable or floating holiday, or indeed work/school may be avoided by consensus unofficially. This is typically referred to by a phrase involving "bridge" in most languages.'

It's November 1 and it's overcast and raining.  Just 9 celsius and well ... it feels like autumn.

Anyway, a beautiful memory from a long-ago home in New Zealand, with my much-loved ancient dog walking towards me on the veranda.

Going Home ... and Missy Higgins.

I found the music of Missy Higgins today, just after finding an old favourite of mine ... Paul Kelly's song, Midnight Rain, via youtube.  I've been searching for it online for years.

He sang with Missy and, curious, I went wandering through her world and found Everyone's Waiting ...see the clip below.

And I watched it and remembered swimming in New Zealand's oceans.  I remembered how good it felt to walk my dogs on the beaches.  I remembered startling one of my favourite dogs out on Long Beach, in Dunedin, when I ran into the surf with her ... fully clothed, one day when I just needed to swim.

Then I hit replay and listened while I wrote to a friend.  Not seeing the flim clip, I heard the familar roar of the surf, the crackle and slosh of the sea ... and something clicked, in my soul perhaps.

And I cracked open a spare moleskin notebook I had here. 

I wrote New Zealand there on its front page, and started a list.

- find a copy of the movie 'In My Father's Den'.

- swim in the sea

- stand and walk in the surf, (photograph that to bring back to Europe when I leave).

And finally, so long after booking the tickets, I let my mind sift through the possibilities ... sunrises with coffee, outside, someplace beautiful.

Seeing my nieces, the Georgia and Katie creatures, who were 8 years younger when I left and now, well ... they're both teenagers. 

And my much-loved favourite sister, Sandra, and my dad ... and one of my brothers, Steve, will be over from Australia.

There might be sunsets and wine, and long conversations ... with friends, like Dave and Jude, Christine and Peter, Fiona and Barry and others ...  but I talk of them here.

Anyway, I'll be letting this song of Missy's take me home in the meanwhile ... and maybe I'll play up loud as we wander New Zealand ... letting Home sink back into my bones and fill me again.

That Desire for Home ...

The desire to go home is a desire to be whole, to know where you are, to be the point of intersection of all the lines drawn through all the stars, to be the constellation-maker and the center of the world, that center called love. To awaken from sleep, to rest from awakening, to tame the animal, to let the soul go wild, to shelter in darkness and blaze with light, to cease to speak and be perfectly understood.

Rebecca Solnit.

I used to sit there, near the top of the hill, at the edge.  Located on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand, it was a great place to sit and dream about the world ... 6,000kms away from my east coast they told me.

I'm beginning to believe that I'm finally going home ... after 8 years away.  I never imagined, not even for a second, that I would ever spend longer than a year away from this landscape that owns my soul.

But I've looked around while I've been gone ... fallen for Genova, loved Istanbul, live in Flanders, wandered in Cairo and Paris and Amsterdam, Barcelona and Salamanca, Madrid too.  Adored and was awed by Rome, smiled in Naples, survived Berlin.  Enjoyed Ireland and England, France.

But going home ... it's as the quote says, I suspect. 

 

David Lange, a Kiwi Prime Minister, speaking at the Oxford Union Debate,1985

I have to share this beautiful moment in New Zealand's history ... I wanted to put it someplace so I can go back to it sometimes.

We were so proud of him, that country of mine. 

Anyway, let me quote wikipedia, to get the story right: David Lange was the 32nd Prime Minister of New Zealand from 1984 to 1989. He headed New Zealand's fourth Labour Government, one of the most reforming administrations in his country's history, but one which did not always conform to traditional expectations of a social-democrat party.

He had a reputation for cutting wit (sometimes directed against himself) and eloquence. His government implemented far-reaching free-market reforms. Helen Clark has described New Zealand's nuclear-free legislation as his legacy.

Lange made his name on the international stage with a long-running campaign against nuclear weapons. His government refused to allow nuclear-armed ships into New Zealand waters, a policy that New Zealand continues to this day. The policy, developing in 1985, had the effect of prohibiting United States Navy ships from visiting New Zealand.

This displeased the United States and Australia: they regarded the policy as a breach of treaty obligations under ANZUS and as an abrogation of responsibility in the context of the Cold War against the Soviet bloc. After consultations with Australia and after negotiations with New Zealand broke down, the United States announced that it would suspend its treaty obligations to New Zealand until the re-admission of United States Navy ships to New Zealand ports, characterising New Zealand as "a friend, but not an ally".

Erroneous claims sometimes suggest that David Lange withdrew New Zealand from ANZUS. His government's policy may have prompted the US's decision to suspend its ANZUS Treaty obligations to New Zealand, but that decision rested with the U.S. government, not with the New Zealand government.

The Oxford Union debate shown below, went out live on New Zealand television in March 1985 showcased Lange, a skilled orator, arguing for the proposition that "nuclear weapons are morally indefensible", in opposition to U.S. televangelist Jerry Falwell. Lange regarded his appearance at the Oxford Union as the highest point of his career in politics. 

His speech included his memorable statement "I can smell the uranium on it [your breath]...!"